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3 Kinds Of Wood Used In Real Wood Furniture

by: Samantha Birch

Real wood furniture is the most popular furniture in
existence. It's been around for hundreds of years and
probably existed when the cave people got tired of squatting
on the dirt floor of their caves and looked around for a
better way.

The woods that are fashioned into furniture fall into three
categories:

1. Hardwoods
2. Softwoods
3. Composites

Even the term 'hardwood' or 'softwood' is deceptive.
Hardwoods aren't necessarily harder, denser material. For
example, balsa wood is one of the lightest, least dense
woods there is, and it's considered a hardwood. Technically,
lumber is classified based on how the tree reproduces. As a
general rule, though, softwood trees are evergreen year
round while the hardwoods create the gorgeous autumn foliage
that we all love so much.

Hardwoods are considered the highest quality and are the
most expensive. Their natural colors vary from the darkest
woods to the lightest ones and and they can be stained or
painted for even more variety. Hardwood furniture is least
likely to warp or bend and is prized in all high quality
homes. The five woods most commonly used in furniture
production are cherry, walnut, oak, maple and mahogany.

Softwoods are less expensive than hardwoods, but they
require extra care. Because they are less durable, it's much
easier to scratch or dent softwood furniture. In addition,
they often don't have the beautiful grains of a hardwood,
and therefore don't stain as beautifully.

Pine is an example of a softwood that is commonly used for
furniture. These woods are often used in construction as
well so the choicest pieces are reserved for furniture. In
construction, knots and splits are common. Lots of
construction lumber will not accept paint and this kind of
wood is used for shelves or packing crates.

The softwood used in furniture is designated as "Appearance"
lumber and includes most softwood lumber that has been
custom milled to a pattern or otherwise surfaced on all four
sides.

Composites are the cheapest form of wood and are literally
manufactured, rather than grown.

1. Plywood: multiple layers of thin wooden sheets are glued
together and pressed. Plywood is strong and resists
swelling, shrinking and warping. There is some furniture
made directly from plywood, but generally it is only used as
a support when incorporated into furniture.

2. Particle board: sawdust and small wood chips are mixed
with glue or resin which is then shaped and pressure
treated. When used for inexpensive furniture, particle board
is usually covered with laminate or veneer. This is
necessary because particle board splits easily and the
laminate prevents splitting. However, the downside is that
the laminate may separate from the wood because the particle
board responds to temperature and pressure changes by
swelling and shrinking.

3. Hardboard: is made like particle board but it's placed
under higher pressure so it's stronger.

4. MDF or Medium Density Fiberboard: wood particles are
bonded with resin and compressed. It is harder than particle
board or hardboard, and can be cut like plywood although it
isn't as strong as plywood. Some MDF is covered with
melamine which is a durable plastic in a variety of colors.
The exposed edges of MDF are rough and need covering with
molding or some other decorative material.

Technically, furniture made from all of these wood products
is "real" wood furniture, even the composites. Prices and
quality range from the hardwoods down to the composites.
The higher you go up the spectrum, the more you can expect
to pay for your wood furniture. The good part, of course,
is that with proper care hardwood furniture will last for
decades or even generations. If you can afford it, always
choose hardwood furniture.

About the author:
Read dozens of articles & constant new information on home decorating, furniture, unique home decor, home interiors & gifts, including a home blog, books on decorating and weekly specials.

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A Guide to Good Furniture Care
by: Holly Linington

During my long career in the furniture business I�ve often been asked, �What is the proper way to care for my fabric?� After all, you�ve purchased your dream furniture piece but you�re terrified to use it out of fear of damaging it. But you don�t have to live in fear! After extensive research and testing I have found the following guidelines and suggestions to be helpful.

Upholstered Furniture

Because of the wide variety of fabrics and fiber combinations, there is no guarantee that these methods will be completely successful and I recommend that a professional upholstery cleaner be contacted in particular cases. However, these simple solutions will keep your new upholstery crisp and clean for years!

� Vacuum at least once a week to remove grit that can cause abrasion, and be sure to dust vacuum the top surfaces as often as possible. Professional cleaning is the best way to make a slightly soiled sofa look new again, but weekly vacuuming will make professional cleaning a less frequent event. (Never brush any fabric with a stiff fiber or metal brush, since they�re destructive to the fibers. Instead, use your vacuum attachments like the upholstery brush or the attachment for dusting draperies and furniture. The latter brush has longer bristles and is less abrasive to your upholstery fabric. It may be your best option if your fabric deserves a softer brushing.)

� Reverse the cushions each week after vacuuming. Rearrange the furniture occasionally to ensure even wear of the cushions and other areas.

Cushions and pillows filled with down or similar cushioning material should be hand-fluffed and reversed regularly to retain their original softness and resiliency.

� Protect fabrics from the sun. Fabrics should not be placed in direct sunlight because the ultraviolet light will cause the fibers to degenerate and colors to fade. Occasionally dyes can fade from impurities in the air as well, but protection from the sun is a good way to prevent premature loss of color.

� Keep pets off the furniture. Pet urine and pet body oil can be difficult to remove.

� Use proper care with structural weave fabrics (where the design is created by the weave) to protect against snags. These fabrics may be cleaned by sprinkling dry powder cleaner over the fabric, spreading it uniformly and letting it stand for the recommended period before vacuuming with gentle suction. (However, I do recommend professional cleaning with stains on a woven fabric.)

� Caution those wearing clothing with transferable dyes, such as blue jeans, that the dye could transfer onto light-colored furniture.

Fabric Cleaning Guide

Today�s new fabric treatments improve the chances of your fabric�s survival. Fabric protection products are usually applied by the retail store for an additional cost. Most of the various brands work the same way by causing spills and soil to sit on the surface of the fiber instead of migrating to the fiber�s interior.

Today�s fiber protection products are free of ozone damaging chemicals, and most are hypoallergenic and invisible to the eye. Some even provide additional UV protection from color fading caused by intense light. One of the greatest benefits of fabric protection products is that they come with specific written warranties that provide peace of mind.

Whether your new upholstery has been fabric protected or not, you should follow the same basic guidelines in cleaning liquid spills or surface soil that can�t be brushed off (such as newspaper ink).

Fabric Cleaning Codes

Before attempting to clean a spill or spot on your furniture, you should identify the fabric and the correct cleaning method recommended by the manufacturer. This information is represented by a cleaning code (W, S, WS, or X) often found under a cushion, on the bottom of the furniture or on the manufacturer�s tag. If you cannot find this information, contact your salesperson at the furniture store where the item was purchased.

W � Spot clean only with water-based shampoo or foam upholstery cleaner.

S � Spot clean only with water-free cleaning solvent. Do not overwet. DO NOT USE WATER.

WS � Spot clean with upholstery shampoo, foam from a mild detergent, or a mild dry cleaning solvent. Do not overwet.

X � Clean only by vacuuming or light brushing with a non-metallic brush. DO NOT USE WATER OR DRY CLEANING SOLVENTS. Do not use a foam or liquid cleaner of any type.

Never apply cleaning solutions to visible areas of your upholstery fabric without first testing on areas that are not visible. It is important to pretest for color loss and fabric compatibility.

Cleaning Instructions

As a general rule, when a spill occurs, it is important to clean the fabric immediately. The longer a spot remains, the harder it is to remove. It may even become permanent.

Blot, don�t rub. If the spill is still �fresh�, use a clean, dry and very absorbent 100% cotton cloth. Should you have to use paper towels to blot out spills, be sure the paper towel (or cloth) is white, as colors in the towel may, when applied to a wet surface, fade onto the upholstery. Color from one fabric can rub off onto another fabric, even when dry -- a process known in the industry as �crocking�.

If blotting with a dry cloth doesn�t quite finish the job and you have cleaning directions from the furniture manufacturer, follow those. If none are available, use the instructions provided here.

I hope this information has been insightful. Use these tools when necessary, but most importantly, enjoy your upholstered piece -- it was meant to be used!

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