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Like An Extra Virgin!
by: Peter Carnes
I’m talking, of course, about extra-virgin olive oil!

Not many people would disagree with the assertion that olive oil is the very basis and hallmark of southern French cuisine. It’s used everywhere: in aioli and pistou, in tapénade and anchoiade, in ratatouille and pan bagnat ….

It’s used to flavor ragouts and daubes, to marinade meat and fish before cooking, to dress vegetables and salads, to add a distinctive Provencal je ne sais quoi to breads such as fougasse, and even to certain cakes and pastries ….

The cuisine of Provence would be inconceivable without olive oil!

Introduced into Provence by Greek traders nearly 3,000 years ago, the olive tree has come to symbolise many things: light, wisdom, chastity, immortality. The olive branch is a universal emblem of peace and harmony. And don’t forget that it was an olive branch that the dove brought back to Noah as a sign that the long ordeal of the Flood was finally over.

Growing and cultivating olive trees has never been an easy task. They demand years – even generations – of care, attention and nurture, taking over 35 years to reach maximum growth and to finally yield a plentiful harvest.

The harvest usually begins in September, and can continue through to February, depending on the type and color of the olives being gathered. Age-old traditional methods are still used extensively to harvest the fruit. Some olive-growers pick the olives by hand in order to ensure that the delicate fruit is not bruised. Others use a special hazel pole to knock the olives on to sheets spread out under the trees.

Even after the fruit has been harvested, the process is still an intensely laborsome one. The olives have to be sorted, washed, rinsed and then ground into a thick paste between huge granite wheels.

The resulting olive pulp is hydraulically pressed between sheets of hemp or sisal, and then separated by centrifugal force into oil and juice.

This is the point in the process which determines the type and quality of the oil being extracted. The finest olive oil – the huile d’olive vierge, produit naturel, 1ere pression a froid ( virgin olive oil, natural product, first cold press) is the result of this first, natural, chemical-and –additive-free process. This is the olive oil with the finest flavor and the highest pedigree: the connoisseur’s choice.

It’s the natural acidity of the final product that determines its “virgin” status. Oil with an acidity of less than 0.8 per cent can proudly boast the “extra virgin” label. Oils with an acidity of between 0.8 per cent and 2 per cent are just everyday virgins!



In Provence the best olive oils are reputed to come from Nyons, which is situated at the base of Mont Ventoux , but, speaking personally, I have always preferred the olive oil from la vallée des Baux in the Bouches-du-Rhone. It has a particularly unique flavor that has been variously described as ‘green fruit’, ‘artichoke’, ‘cut hay’ - even ‘wet grass’!

I accept that my preference may be an emotional, rather than a rational, one. I have spent a lot of time in that area of Provence, and have used vallée des Baux olive oils for cooking and flavoring for many years.

Having said that, the area was awarded appellation controlée status for its olives and olive oil in 1997 – so my loyalty has been well-vindicated.

The local olive oil is used extensively (and to great effect) in local restaurants, such as the world-famous Oustau de Baumaniere, its younger sibling Le Cabro d’Or (both situated in the incredibly beautiful village of Les Baux-de-Provence itself) and the elegant Le Rigalido in the nearby village of Fontvieille.

If you happen to find yourself in this lovely region, several of the local olive merchants happily open their olive mills (and their shops) to visitors. Try the famous Castelas olive mill in Les Baux or the Moulin de Saint-Jean and Chateau d’Estoublon sites, both on the Maussane/ Fonvieille road.

You can find more information at the following web sites:


http://www.huile-moulinsaintjean.com

http://www.estoublon.com


So get yourself some real, authentic Provencal olive oil. It’s good for your heart – and it tastes great, too!



About the author:
Peter Carnes is an author, webmaster and online publisher. His Provence-related sites are at:
http://www.heart-of-provence.com
http://www.provence-light.com


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More Article Pages 1 - 2

Eat your Veggies! Simple Cooking Methods

Vegetables add colour, taste, texture and bulk to our daily diet. There are dozens of different vegetables that can be prepared in literally hundreds of ways. So what's best?

There is no best. The thing to do is to eat your vegetables, lots of them, everyday in a wide variety of ways and stop worrying about the preparation methods. Variety is the key...

Raw

Many vegetables taste fabulous just the way they are straight out of the garden. Lettuce, tomato, celery, cabbage, onion, radish, carrot are obvious choices here. But they are just as likely to find themselves next to chopped up broccoli, cauliflower, peas, beans and zucchini on a starter platter with dips. Wash 'em, chop 'em and eat 'em. Oh, yeah, you could also make a salad!

Steamed

Steaming heats the vegetable and softens it's texture. It's gentler than boiling and allows the vegetable to maintain it's colour if not overdone. Use a stainless steel steamer that will fit into most good size sauce pans. Make sure you use a pan with a tight fitting lid. There should be enough water to just touch the bottom of the steamer. Water should be simmering the whole time the vegetables are being cooked.

Boiling

Boiling vegetables is really going out of fashion, but it's a legitimate preparation method! The big concern is loss of nutrients. All cooking methods result in the loss of some goodness from the vegetables. If boiling, try to find a way to use the water the vegetables have been boiled in (i.e. to make a gravy or sauce) to bring those nutrients back to the table. Vegetables should be barely covered with water. Bring the water to a boil (covered) then slow to a simmer until vegetables are tender.

Microwave

Very popular for vegetables as it retains colour, flavour and nutrients. Trial and error will be your guide with microwaving as there are plenty of variables involved. However, a few guidelines will help...The more food you put into the oven, the longer it will take to cook. Underestimate your cooking time rather than overestimate. Undercooked food can be cooked some more. Over-cooked food is ruined. Food straight from the fridge will take longer to cook than that at room temperature. All food continues to cook after it has been removed from the microwave oven. It is part of the cooking process and should be taken into account to prevent over-cooking.

Stir Fry

Very rapid method of quick frying vegetables, meat (optional) and sauces in one pan to make a meal. Primarily associated with Asian cooking. The key to doing this well is preparation. All items to be cooked should be chopped to a size that will allow them to cook quickly in the wok. It is also important that the wok is heated to a high, consistent temperature throughout. Vegetables maintain their colour and crispness with this sort of cooking (if not overdone).

Baking

Brilliant! Especially for those 'root' vegetables like potatoes, turnip, carrot and beetroot. Chop into similar size pieces, brush lightly with olive oil and put in a hot oven to roast. Size of the pieces will determine the cooking time but expect at least 40 minutes. Outside is chewy, inside is moist and fluffy. Dress with sour cream and chives. Yum!

Barbeque

Does anything scream summer like the word barbeque? Love a barbeque. This is primarily open flame cooking, so could apply to a campfire as well. Cooking outside just changes everything about food. You'll need foil, fire and fresh veggies. Grease your foil, chop your veggies and put the closed packages on the grill. Be adventurous, it's really hard to mess this up!

Judy Williams (http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com) splits her time between being a media executive and an earth mother goddess. No Dig Vegetable Gardens represents a clean, green way to grow your own food. The site covers all aspects of growing, cooking and preserving your harvest.

 



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