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Car alarm - attempt to discourage theft of car

by: Michael Sanford

A car alarm is a device installed in a car in an attempt to discourage theft of that car. Most alarms work by making a loud sound. Other alarms disable the ignition of the car, or send a signal to the owner (by way of a beeper) that his or her car is being disturbed
Car alarms are set off by vibrations, tilting of the car (to prevent unauthorized towing), or touching the car. The vast majority of car alarms which sound are accidental. They are caused by the passing of large trucks, the vibration of thunder or people touching the car (as to tie one's shoe on a bumper).

Since most car alarms are accidental, most people in American cities are numbed to the sound of alarms, and do nothing to prevent theft. The New York City Police Department claims that car alarms are actually making the crime problem worse (see their booklet called "Police Strategy No. 5: Reclaiming the Public Spaces of New York," City of New York, New York, 1994) because since nothing is done about the alarms, the general impression is that no one cares about the neighborhood.

Because of the large number of false alarms with car alarms, many vehicle manufacturers no longer factory fit alarms, offering silent - but effective - immobilizers instead. As an after-market fitting, a vehicle tracking system, which allows the police to trace stolen vehicles is considerably more effective. Both of these class of devices cover the event of someone attempting to take the vehicle without consent; but do not cover theft from, or vandalism of, the vehicle.

If you want to think about a car alarm in its simplest form, it is nothing but one or more sensors connected to some sort of siren. The very simplest alarm would have a switch on the driver's door, and it would be wired so that if someone opened the door the siren would start wailing. You could implement this car alarm with a switch, a couple of pieces of wire and a siren.
Most modern car alarm systems are much more sophisticated than this. They consist of:

An array of sensors that can include switches, pressure sensors and motion detectors
A siren, often able to create a variety of sounds so that you can pick a distinct sound for your car
A radio receiver to allow wireless control from a key fob
An auxiliary battery so that the alarm can operate even if the main battery gets disconnected
A computer control unit that monitors everything and sounds the alarm -- the "brain" of the system

The brain in most advanced systems is actually a small computer. The brain's job is to close the switches that activate alarm devices -- your horn, headlights or an installed siren -- when certain switches that power sensing devices are opened or closed. Security systems differ mainly in which sensors are used and how the various devices are wired into the brain.

The brain and alarm features may be wired to the car's main battery, but they usually have a backup power source as well. This hidden battery kicks in when somebody cuts off the main power source (by clipping the battery cables, for example). Since cutting the power is a possible indication of an intruder, it triggers the brain to sound the alarm.

The most basic element in a car alarm system is the door alarm. When you open the front hood, trunk or any door on a fully protected car, the brain triggers the alarm system.
Most car alarm systems utilize the switching mechanism that is already built into the doors. In modern cars, opening a door or trunk turns on the inside lights. The switch that makes this work is like the mechanism that controls the light in your refrigerator. When the door is closed, it presses in a small, spring-activated button or lever, which opens the circuit. When the door is opened, the spring pushes the button open, closing the circuit and sending electricity to the inside lights.

All you have to do to set up door sensors is add a new element to this pre-wired circuit. With the new wires in place, opening the door (closing the switch) sends an electrical current to the brain in addition to the inside lights. When this current flows, it causes the brain to sound the alarm.

As an overall protective measure, modern alarm systems typically monitor the voltage in the car's entire electrical circuit. If there is a drop in voltage in this circuit, the brain knows that someone has interfered with the electrical system. Turning on a light (by opening the door), messing with electrical wires under the hood or removing an attached trailer with an electrical connection would all cause such a drop in voltage.

Door sensors are highly effective, but they offer fairly limited protection. There are other ways to get into the car (breaking a window), and thieves don't actually need to break into your car to steal it from you (they can tow your car away). In the next couple of sections, we'll look at some of the more advanced car alarm systems that protect against craftier criminals.

These days, only the cheapest car alarm packages rely on door sensors alone. Advanced alarm systems mostly depend on shock sensors to deter thieves and vandals.
The idea of a shock sensor is fairly simple: If somebody hits, jostles or otherwise moves your car, the sensor sends a signal to the brain indicating the intensity of the motion. Depending on the severity of the shock, the brain signals a warning horn beep or sounds the full-scale alarm.

There are many different ways to construct a shock sensor. One simple sensor is a long, flexible metal contact positioned just above another metal contact. You can easily configure these contacts as a simple switch: When you touch them together, current flows between them. A substantial jolt will cause the flexible contact to sway so that it touches the contact below, completing the circuit briefly.

The problem with this design is that all shocks or vibrations close the circuit in the same way. The brain has no way of measuring the intensity of the jolt, which results in a lot of false alarms. More-advanced sensors send different information depending on how severe the shock is. The design shown below, patented by Randall Woods in 2000, is a good example of this sort of sensor.

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Tips For Winter Driving
by: David Maillie

Winter driving can be hazardous and stressful. Wind, snow, ice and blizzard conditions increase the normal dangers of driving. There is a lot you can do before the winter driving season and during a storm to protect yourself and your family.

Before winter arrives, have your car inspected to be sure it is ready for the road conditions. You can do this yourself or take it to a qualified mechanic. Check the battery, wipers and fluid, thermostat, brakes, ignition system, antifreeze, exhaust system, lights, oil level, heater and defrosters. Make sure everything is in good working order to keep you safe throughout the cold weather.

Check your tires to be sure they are road ready. Install tires that are appropriate for the driving conditions. In moderate amounts of snow, all weather radials will do the job nicely. If you live in a climate where you experience a lot of snow, consider snow tires. These have better tread to deal with snow and ice.

Prepare an emergency kit to keep in the back of your car. This will ensure that you are prepared in the event that you get stuck in the snow. Things to include in the kit:

Ice scraper
Small broom
Small shovel
Kitty litter or a bag of sand (to give traction if you get stuck in snow or ice)
Blankets or a sleeping bag
Flashlight with batteries
Flares or warning triangles
Plastic bags
First aid kit
Tool kit
Jumper cables
Bright cloth to use as a flag
Help sign for back window
Extra hat and gloves
Food and water to sustain you if you get stuck
A book, Bible or Prayer Cards to keep you busy and calm in the event you get stuck.
Charged cell phone (always carry this, especially in the winter)

Keep your gas tank at least half full at all times. This adds weight to the car and will ensure that you won�t run out of gas in the event you get stuck.

Driving in the Snow

Pay attention to the weather forecasts and road conditions in the winter months. If the weather is bad, stay home if at all possible. If you must venture out, travel in the daylight. You are more likely to find help if you get stuck during the day. Never warm up your vehicle in the garage. This releases carbon monoxide, which is toxic and can kill you.

When driving, always wear your seatbelt. Wear sunglasses to protect your eyes from the glare of the sun reflecting off the snow. Know your car and how it handles in the snow. Features like traction control and antilock brakes can be useful in bad weather conditions. Know how these work and if your car is new, practice driving it in a snow covered parking lot before venturing out on the road.

Take it slow, especially in icy conditions. Don�t tailgate and be sure to allow a safe distance between vehicles. Do everything slowly, stopping, accelerating and turning. Leave plenty of time and space to maneuver. Sliding and skidding usually happen when turning, stopping or accelerating. Going extra slow will ensure your safety.

If the visibility is low, slow down even more. Consider getting off highways and driving even slower. This will take you out of the path of large trucks that can cause accidents. Use only your low beams, as your high beams will reflect back off the snow and won�t increase your visibility. Turn on your hazard lights to be sure other drivers see you.

In the event your car gets stuck, don�t get out. Put up the hood and tie your cloth to the antennae. This will make you more visible to emergency vehicles and other drivers. Keep the windows, air grill and tail pipe clear of snow. Wrap up in blankets and huddle up with passengers to stay warm. Run the heat for fifteen minutes each hour to keep from freezing. Move your body around to stay warm.

Keeping your car clean throughout the winter is important. Salt on the roads is important for safety, but will wreak havoc on the finish. If left on for long periods, it can cause rusting. Wash your vehicle weekly to remove salt and wax to protect the paint. Salt also leaves a coating on your headlights that can impair their operation. This will make you less visible to other vehicles. New Lite Headlight Cleaner and Restorer will return the lights to like new condition.

About The Author

David Maillie is a chemist with over 12 years experience in biochemical research and clynical analysis. He is an alumni of Cornell University and specializes in biochemical synthesis for public, private, and governmental interests. He holds numerous patents including his recently awarded patent for headlight cleaner and restorer. He can be reached at M.D. Wholesale: http://www.mdwholesale.com.

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